Saturday, 28 April 2007

Sydney and home.


Left NZ at 5am on the first leg of our journey home. Stopped off in Sydney for the day and caught up with Beck. Had a look round the Opera House and the harbour, stopping off at a restaurant to sample a Kangaroo steak for lunch. Not bad! Afterwards it was onwards to Manchester via Bankok and Heathrow which was rubbish. Made it home finally after delays and baggage loss. Not so sweet as!

Wednesday, 25 April 2007

Still Auckland


So since we've sold the van we've just been pottering around Auckland, admiring the multi-million dollar yachts in the harbour, and doing tourist stuff. The photo is from the top of 'Sky City', the tallest structure in the Southern hemisphere. There's a big observation lounge with 360 views, which was cool, but the best bit was watching people jump from the top (on a guide wide, kinda bungee without the bounce), they drop them a few meters to 'observation lounge' height and leaving the dangling for 10 seconds, before dropping them all the way to the floor!


We fly out very early tomorrow morning, sat in the backpackers now, packing and thinking we should be out doing something exciting with our last day in NZ. So on that note will get off line + go adventure. Jos

Tuesday, 24 April 2007

The bitter end...

We've been back in Auckland now for almost a week, staying in a backpackers' hostel until we fly to Sydney on Thursday morning. Sold the van after a couple of days for a pittance at a car fair. Timed it totally wrong me thinks! There's just hoards of travellers like us trying to sell their campervans before flying home at the end of the summer. No one was getting decent money for them and bearly even any interest! There was a couple of other brits accross from us trying to sell their van with no success so we ended up just having a bit of a laugh with them, making squeeking and clanking noises when anyone else went past on a test drive. I hate second hand vehicle buying and selling. It feels really dirty because everyone's trying to get one over on each other for the sake of a few bucks. Really felt like I needed a shower after the whole seedy business. So we decided to cut our losses, sell it to a breaker for $1000 (£400), get out of there and go and get drunk. Sweet as! Still see loads of people trying to sell for way over the odds. Think they're dreaming. Take the booze every time!
Looking forward to coming home to the good old English summer. Hope we can bring some of this kiwi weather with us although from what we've heard it sounds pretty good back there already!
Tom

Sunday, 22 April 2007

Back to Auckland

Well here we are back in Auckland! After the Renwick wine jaunt we headed up to Picton where we caught the ferry back accross the Cook Strait to Wellington. Because we booked on an evening sailing we decided to spend the day taking in the last of the Marlborough Sounds as the weather was absolutely perfect. Jos opted for a wildlife cruise up th Queen Charlotte Sound while I decided to do yet more scuba diving, this time taking in an old wreck site right out on the headland. Great day out. The first dive started with a preliminary swim with a pod of bottlenose dolphins. We'd just got into wetsuits when we noticed the pod approaching the boat so all of us made a mad scramble for masks and snorkels and threw ourselves into the water. Unfortunately no one had had time to don fins so we kind of just bobbed around looking somewhat inept in the eyes of the passing porpoises as they sped past us in the persuit of whatever they were persuing. This happens when you interact with the dolphins. Some days they are up for stopping and playing around/ taking the piss out of humans' swimming inabilities which is fine (I'd like to see them try and skydive) but some days they just want to get to where they want to go and eat fish and stuff. It was still awesome though. They have this cheeky kind of knowing grin on their faces which has an amazing effect of putting in your place as a mere human being. Anyway off they went and down we went. Saw an octpus. Didn't invite us into his garden though. Shame. This photo was taken on the way back into port from the dive boat. Same pod we think, about 20 of 'em all surfing in the boat's wake. Not bad for our last day on the South Island of possibly the most beautiful country in the world, I'm sure you'll agree!
P.S Mum: We cancelled the Bankok stop because this place is so good. We didn't fancy staying in another big city when we could spend the time exploring mountains and seabeds!

Sunday, 15 April 2007

The finest wines available to humanity...

From Arthurs Pass we continued north to Renwick in the heart of New Zealand's Marlborough wine making district. We checked in to a backpacker's hostel and hired bikes from them to ride round the area taking in all the local vinyards that were offering cellar door tastings. Some of the wines were absolutely gorgeous, my favourites being the pinot gris from numerous places. We enjoyed this so much we stayed for a second day to take in yet more wine and soak it all up with an incredibly good lunch. How delightful. Stopping at Grove Mill vinyard, the first carbon neutral yard in NZ, we couldn't resist a quick game of boules between the vines! You'd like it here Dad.

Arthur's Pass


Spent a couple of days in Arthurs Pass. More mountains and buckets of rain. Fortunately we managed to get a decent walk in before the weather turned. These pictures were taken on Bealey Spur. Because of the weather warning we didn't stay out over night in any huts and had to spend the evening in a bar drinking exceptionally fine single malt scotch. Tragic.









Wednesday, 11 April 2007

Sheffield!



Headed on the Arthurs Pass on our continuing journey north. But before getting there we just had to stop in the village that has proudly taken my own home town's name on in the South... Sheffield! The Centre point of Sheffield is an absolutely amazing pie shop. No cutlery here, just a railway line and the pies in paper bags. Sweet as!

Lake Tekapo


After leaving Mt Cook village and the Tasman glacier we headed on to Lake Tekapo where, after stocking up on booze and food, we parked up on this little lake side campsite for the night. These lakes are in the MacKenzie country; a huge basin in the centre of the South Island that's been carved by glaciers from previous ice ages. MacKenzie country is named after a thieving Scotsman who apparently drove his 1000 stolen sheep here from the Cantebury plains through a pass previously unknown to the European settlers. Eventually he was found and after a few escapes and consequential recaptures, he was sent to Australia to join all the other convicts. Seems strange to name a place after a guy like this in a country that prides itself on the pioneering spirit and it's detachment from their somewhat convict ridden Aussie neighbours! Oh the irony...
The following day we went and visited the Mt John observatory where you can getv great views of the surrounding basin as well as taking a tour round the installations. One for you here Piet, one of the main telescopes set up here is permanently looking for dark matter in a globular galaxy that is clearly visible with the naked eye on a clear night down here. The stars here are incredible. Because you jook out into a part of space you can't see in the northern hemispere there's loads of different stuff to see like these far off galaxies and the spiral arm of our own. Cool-a-mundo!

Saturday, 7 April 2007

More Mt Cook





This is Jos looking out to Mt Cook, part of the way up Mt Ollivier at a point called Sealy Tarns. We camped at the DOC campsite the night after skydiving and set out early the next day on this 7 hour return walk in absoloutly perfect weather. The route was pretty busy with it being Good Friday bank holiday, but well worth it never the less. Apparently this was the first hill Edmund Hillary climbed before going on to scale Everest years later. What a place to start mountaineering!
We reached the Mueller hut after about 4 hours and stopped for lunch and then I headed on to the summit whilst Jos watched huge avalanches falling off Mt Sefton accross the opposite side of the Mueller Glacier. I could think of far worse places to eat sandwiches and hard boiled eggs! We then headed back down the hill, knees tiring, to the campsite. The evening was spent in the dead nice "Old Mountaineers Cafe Bar and Restaurant" in Mount Cook village, eating pizzas and drinking fine wines. How civilised!






Out and about in Mt Cook


So, after jumping out of the aeroplane we headed up the road to Mt Cook village. It's part of a huge National Park that contains the majority of NZ's highest peaks (22 over 3,500m in the park). Mt Cook itself is massive, 3,750m high, the highest point in the Southern Hemisphere / Australasia (depending on which publicity you read).


After the excitement of skydiving, we decided not to go up Mt Cook (takes years of training, a week to do, and lots of people don't make it back), and settled for the Mueller Hut instead, 1,800m up (For me, this was akin to climbing Cook). Well I huffed and I puffed, and we made it to the top. Amazingly stunning views, we were in the snow line (could hear and see ice falls crashing down nearby mountains), and could look down on to the Hooker and Mueller glaciers, or across to Mt Cook and Mt Sefton. The first photo was taken on the way up, looking past Tom out towards where we camped and Lake Pukaki.



The second photo was taken at the top, Tom gazing serenely across at Mt Cook (vowing to do more summit climbs on our next trip).

To be honest, getting down again was quite hard, I ouched my knee 1/2 way, and hobbled and cursed the rest of the way. After a bit of rest at the van, we decided the only way to cure it was red wine and pizza at the local cafe.....

The last photo was taken today - we just went on a little walk (tho legs surprisingly ok today) to see the Tasman Glacier lake, complete with dirty icebergs.

Twizel Skydiving!














So the van passed it's WOF (NZ equivalent of an MOT) and away we went, considerably less well off than when we had arrived in Dunedin. Anyway, we didn't let that get us down for too long and we headed out towards a small town called Twizel on the way to Mt Cook. The weather was looking particularly fine; some may have said perfect for skydiving, which is exactly what the skydive instructor Mercier said when we rang to book, except with a slightly more Austrian accent like "Arnie." Two tandem freefalls were promptly booked for the following morning and I spent the rest of the evening wondering why on Earth I'd just agreed to such a thing. At first I put it down to having a pushy girlfriend but in the end realised that actually it seemed like quite an interesting thing to do. So away we went! Jos went first, leaving me on the ground to contemplate my fate in solitude. Fortunately she landed OK which instilled me with a great deal of confidence. With jumpsuit and harness fastened and after having to listen to Mercier make bad jokes about parachutes not opening/ planes crashing etc it was my go. The flight took us up to 12000ft, and after about 30 minutes of awesome views of Lake Pukaki and Mt Cook I got pushed out.


AMAZING. Just do it. If you haven't done it, do it. If you've done it you'll know what I'm on about. After the landing I could bearly walk straight with all the adrenalin flying round my body and brain and stumbled back towards the onlooking Jos whilst laughing hysterically and trying to talk but generally not making much sense.


Unfortunately the cameraman wasn't there that day but I took my camera with me stuffed inside my suit. Got some pics from the plane before jumping and a couple after the chute opened. The freefall however, I just spent shouting and laughing!

Tuesday, 3 April 2007

still no photos...

We're in Dunedin now, arrived this morning and took the van for it's WOF (MOT). Not great news, but could be worse, basically the main thing it needs is welding where the roof and side walls meet. So we'll be here till at least Monday, when the van gets fixed, and gets it's WOF.
Gonna do some more tramping in the hills around here I think (fallen in love with back country huts), and maybe see a film or 2 at the cinema. Hopefully get to a proper internet place soon and post some photos, and think of something more interesting to post. Jos

Monday, 2 April 2007

It's all about the ducks...

Okay, so all the tramping and diving and stuff has been really cool, but lets face it, I only really came here for the ducks, and their mates the birds, and the penguins and the seals, and the sealions and, and.....
The first photo is of a Kea, they are alpine parrots with vivid green plumage, and red bits under their wings that you only see when they fly. We'd heard them quite a few times, and I'd been on the look out for them. This was our first sighting in Milford Sound, when two of them came along and tried to steal from our BBQ! Supposedly they can be quite naughty, and have been known to rip off windscreen wipers to try and get into cars for food. This is because humans fed them too much, and they are forgetting how to act naturally and forage for their own food. So I was good and didn't feed them...
The close up is a Grey Duck, kinda like Mallards, but not as common (classy ducks only please). While we were in Queenstown Tom went up a mountain, I went part of the way with him, then snuck back down to fed the ducks (and the fish actually, in a really cool underwater observatory).
No photos, but yesterday was one of my most geek-alicious. We're still in Dunedin (van is being welded today), so went to the Otago Penisular, where all the wildlife hangs out. We'd had a late one the night before, so while Tom recuperated I went on a tour to see the Royal Albatros colony. Its the only mainland colony in the world, and we timed it well as there are chicks at the momet - only 5 weeks old, but about the size of a small turkey already. When Mum / Dad swoops in with the food its amazing, the parents are huge, 1m body, and 3m from wing tip - wing tip. When the chicks fly off they don't touch land again for at last 5 years (when they come back to mate), and can travel up to 500km a day. Also at the colony were hundreds of other breeding sea birds, including Stewart Island Shags (v. rare I'm told), spotted shags, fur seals and a slightly embarassed moulting yellow eyed penguin.
Speaking of penguins...... that evening at sunset we went down to the beach to watch the blue penguins waddle in. After a hard days fishing they surf in on the waves, waddle across the beach, then up into their nests. We saw five come in, I think more came in later, but it was pretty dark by this time and weeing with rain so we headed back.
It's geat here. Jos

Lake Manapouri Hydroelectric Power Station

New Zealand generates 60% of it's electricity from Hydro electric sources. Lake Manapouri is home to the first one built in NZ and the second largest. Built between 1963 and 1970 it can generate upto 700MW now that they've dug a second tail race to drain the water more efficiently away from the turbines into Doubtful Sound. After finishing our walk around the lake, we opted for an easy day so took a boat trip accross the lake to go on a tour of the power station. Geektastic! The main turbine hall is 200m down inside the mountain and you can go down on a bus and have a look. Impressive bit of engineering! In the 1970's it was the source of NZs first major environmental campaign when the idea of raising the levels of Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri to maximise efficiency met with massive opposition. Fortunately the plans were scrapped and now the lake levels are closely monitored in order not to damage the surrounding environment.
After looking round inside the mountain, we got driven up to the top to look down the other side into Doubtful Sound where the tail race emerges. Next time we come here I think we'll make the effort to go down there properly. It's loads bigger than Milford Sound and much quiter because it can only be accessed by boat. The downside being that this costs a fair chunk of cash that we need to spend on our poorly van.

Lake Manipouri



After Milford sound we carried on south to Te Anau where I reckon we had the best pies of our journey so far. The place is called Miles Better Pies, so if you ever come to NZ you must check em out! After stocking up with pies we drove down to Lake Manipouri where we went on an overnight walk in a mostly forested area around the Lake. We stayed in this little basic grade hut which was free of charge and considerably more basic than the dead posh ones you find on the Great walks. It was great fun but unfortunately the place was inhabited by a group of mice and mosquitos who thought it'd be really cool if they kept us up all night.

Milford Sound








After finishing the Routeburn track, we carried on up to Milford Sound, a fiord named after Milford Haven by the Welsh guy that found it, although from what I remember of Milford Haven, I think this place is just slightly more scenic. The peak in the middle of the picture is called Mitre Peak and is just over a mile high from sea to summit. Which is pretty high. Although an impressive place it can get very busy with tourists, although it was pretty quiet when we were there because the season is coming to an end. In an attempt to get off the beaten tourist track a little bit I decided to go diving in the Fiord which is home to some deep sea species at much shallower depths due to a layer of fresh water on the surface which filters out light so you get things going on at around 20 metres which you would usually only find at 150 metres plus.
After the dive we ended up in the only bar in Milford. We watched rugby (which is virtually impossible to avoid in NZ), ate fish, got pissed and listened to a local band late into the night. Not bad. Actually, I'm getting quite into the rugby over here. Which is kind of good because if you didn't, it would really annoy the hell out of you. They have this Super 14 league which includes teams from New Zealand, Australia and South Africa and is as popular if not more than the Premiership in England. What's also quite cool is that the Kiwis have an almost equal resentment towards any Aussie team playing sport as we do. As the kiwi phase goes: "I support two teams. New Zealand and anyone playing Australia." Good as gold.

Routeburn Track












This is Jos looking down the Routeburn Valley over the Routeburn Falls Hut we stayed in on night two of the three day walk. Day one was OK but a bit wet although most of the day was spent walking through rain forest which had loads of awesome moss covered trees which seemed suited to the wet conditions. Day two was a total wash out, with heavy rain and high winds as we traversed the alpine section over the Harris Saddle - the most exposed part of the route. The book said it was a 5 hour walk but we ended up doing it in just over three because we just motored through to the next hut so we could get dry. Visibility was about 100 metres so as you can imagine the views were so non existent we might as well have been in Yorkshire!
Day three was crystal clear though so we got up early and went back up the mountain to the Saddle so we could appriciate the place properly. It was worth every step. The view from the top was incredible.

Routeburn 2





Tom's already posted about our Routeburn tramp, but I thought I'd add a couple more photos. The photo of Tom and I nicely illustrates the amazing views we had on the first two days, I'm half tempted to photoshop it and add the mountains!

The next photo is Tom in the Beech forest (the non-alpine part of the 3 day walk), also known as 'goblin forest', as it looks so enchanted.
Also in the Goblin forest were just loads of amazing waterfalls, this one was 80 meters high. Tom took the final image on my camera, the misty low cloud raised at the end of day one, and this is the view near the hut we were staying - Mt Emily reflecting in Lake Mackenzie. Jos

Routeburn 3




The final day of the Routeburn and we got up early to go back up Harris saddle, almost ran to make it to the top again and see the views now the clouds had lifted. The 'view from the saddle photo' shows Tom modeling the classic kiwi tramper look - waterproof hat, board shorts (they dry out quick) and gaiters (to keep boots and legs dry and mud free), creating a classic peek-a-boo knees look I think.
After a quick bit of bouldering we had to speedily make it back down to the Routeburn shelter for our bus out; I got public transprt paranoia and was worried we'd miss us, so we rushed the last bit and did a 3.5-4hour walk in just over 2 hours. On the bus we were gutted to find out that instead of a 3-4hour drive back to Te Anau (where we started) we could have done an extra 2-3 day walk on the Greenstone track - was quite shocked that after 3 days I wanted to do more walking, but have really gotten into it. So long as there are picnic eggs, trail mix and fag breaks of course....

Friday, 23 March 2007

What no photos?

Just a quick post to confirm we're alive and well. We're in Milford Sound, Fjordland National Park. The Internet connection is slow and expensive (via satellite!), so there'll b no photos. We did the Routeburn track this week, 3 day walk, amazing, but wet. Off diving tomorrow in the Sound(Tom scuba, me snork), then gonna do some more tramping (NZ for hiking) before hopefully jumping out of an aeroplane over Mt Cook. Hope you are all well, sorry for the lack of individual emails and calls.

Monday, 19 March 2007

The sandfly war


The sandflys are still attacking. sometimes, when we park up for the night, we have to be masked up and ready for action.

Ben Lomond

This is the view of Lake Wakatipu from the summit of Ben Lomond near Queenstown. Apprently the mountain was named after the Scottish version by a load of home sick jocks when they emmigrated in the 18 hundreds. You would have thought all the gold they found here would have cheered them up a bit!

West Coast










This is the view of Mt Cook and Mt Tasman from where we camped after seeing the glaciers. Most of the time the peaks were covered in clouds but every so often you'd get a peek at them (arf arf). Looking the other way over the Tasman Sea was this top sun set that turned the really rough sea a kind of bluey pink colour.

Franz Joseph and Fox Glaciers




This is the Franz Joseph glacier down the west coast. Jos got very excited when she touched it.

Saturday, 17 March 2007

Pancake Rocks


After saying bye to sister Beck, we set off to the West Coast (South Island), and got to Pancake Rocks on the Monday night. It was weeing with rain, so we treated ourselves to a cabin (read small shed). The next day we braved the elements for some drive by tourism, getting out for the 30min walk around the blowholes and pancake rocks (mad geology). The sea was really wild, a good time to see the power it has to shape the landscape. See how impressed Tom is!

Monday, 12 March 2007

Northern Abel Tasman

This is the final hut on the track at Whariwharangi Bay at the north end of the Park. The oldest hut on the route, originally built by a settler who leased land off local Maori to farm. It was abandoned by the owner because the land was pretty poor for cultivating, leaving behind loads of de forested hill sides that had been cleaared for grazing. Since 1972 the land has been recovering and you can hardly see any of the signs of the previous clearing. The conservation work that goes on over here is pretty full on! This was our favourite hut on the whole track. Quiet with only a few other people sharing with us and with smaller separate rooms as opposed to larger shared dorms in the bigger more modern huts. I can honestly say I don't think I've ever experienced a more stunningly beautiful landscape in my life, but then we haven't been down to Fjordland yet... T

Separation Point




Check this out! The fourth day involved an early morning low tide crossing of Awaroa inlet and then a stunning walk through lush sub tropical rain forest to Mutton Cove (above). At this point we split up, Jos and Beck taking a shorter route to the next hut while I took a loop up to Separation point where you get some absoloutely breath taking views of the coast and far off mountains across Tasman Bay.